I live in a suburb called Gaziemir. It's a 30-minute train ride from downtown Izmir. In terms of Nashville, where my family lives, I live in Madison. I've noticed that when people here go into the city, no one says, "I'm going to Izmir." It's too big! Its shoreline includes (by my estimate) 40 miles of harbor, and the city stretches inland a good ways. People say, instead, "Let's meet in Alsancak ("al-SAN-jack")" or "I live in Karşiyaka" or "I need to get some papers signed in Konak." east Wednesday I was in Konak, registering as a legal, foreign resident. (It's a long story not worth relating here.) Konak is where the city government is located. It's also the center of the old "Turkish Quarter," a term that dates back to pre-World War I, a conflict that unleashed the demons of nationalism on this region of the world as well as 90 years of genocide. Konak is Turkish, as my guide, Ipek, said proudly....